Bifold, billfold, same thing
Two words for one wallet. Bifold describes the shape, since it folds in two. Billfold describes the job, since it holds bills flat rather than folded.
You'll see both on our product pages and they mean the same object. Nobody in a shop has ever corrected anyone on this and nobody should start.
Bifold or trifold
A trifold folds twice and stands cards vertically, which fits more cards into a shorter wallet. The tradeoff is thickness: three layers of leather plus contents makes a noticeably chunkier object, and it wears out faster because there are two fold lines taking stress instead of one.
A bifold is longer and flatter. It sits better in a jacket pocket and it lasts longer. That's why it's still the default.
If you want thinner than a bifold, the answer isn't a trifold. It's a card case or a cash cover.
What's here
Genuine American bison at $187 in black, cognac, and black cherry. Bison has a large open pebble grain that came with the animal rather than being pressed in, it stays soft, and it hides scuffs because the grain is already irregular. These are lined in calfskin, which matters: the lining is what wears against your cards, and calf is smoother and more durable than the fabric linings most wallets use at this price.
Black cherry is the one to look at. It reads brown from a distance and shows real depth up close.
Italian tumbled glove leather at $122 in black. Full grain, drum tumbled until it's supple, and the softest option here. It has essentially no break-in period.
How many cards should go in it
Fewer than you think, and this is the single thing that determines whether your wallet lasts three years or fifteen.
A bifold is built around a set number of card slots. Doubling up cards in each slot stretches the leather permanently, forces the wallet open at the spine, and eventually splits it at the fold. No conditioner repairs a split.
Once a year, take everything out and put back only what you used. Most men find two expired cards, a receipt from a restaurant that closed, and an insurance card from a previous job.
Care
Wipe with a dry cloth. Condition lightly at most twice a year and use very little, because too much conditioner darkens leather permanently and softens the structure a wallet needs to hold its shape.
Don't sit on it all day if you can avoid it. A bifold in a back pocket takes the shape of the chair and the fold is where it gives out first. If you're going to sit on a wallet daily, a cash cover in a front pocket will outlast it.
If it gets soaked, empty it, reshape it by hand, and let it dry away from heat.
Related
For something thinner, see Card Holders and Cash Covers. For cash without a fold, see Money Clips. Everything is in all wallets. There's a bison belt in the same leather if you want the pair.
Questions we get
What's the difference between a bifold and a billfold?
Nothing. Bifold describes the shape, since it folds in two. Billfold describes the function, since it holds bills flat. Both words mean the same wallet.
Bifold or trifold?
A trifold holds more cards in a shorter wallet but is noticeably thicker and has two fold lines taking stress instead of one, so it wears out sooner. A bifold is flatter, sits better in a jacket, and lasts longer.
How many cards fit in a bifold wallet?
Use the slots as built and don't double up. Doubling stretches the leather permanently and eventually splits the spine.
Are these wallets lined?
The bison billfolds are lined in calfskin. The lining is what wears against your cards, so a smooth leather lining outlasts fabric.
Is bison leather good for a wallet?
Yes. It's soft from the first day, its natural pebble grain hides scuffs, and it's thick without feeling stiff.
How do I care for a leather bifold?
Wipe with a dry cloth and condition lightly at most twice a year with very little product. Empty it once a year, and avoid sitting on it all day if you can.
What do these cost?
$122 for the tumbled calfskin and $187 for the American bison.
